Sydney vs Zombies
Sydney vs Zombies
Sydney vs Zombies
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Contents
Introduction
Sydney vs Zombies (SvZ) is a branch off from Sydney Nerf Wars which aims to bring regular, engaging and enjoyable Humans vs Zombies (HvZ) events.
General Rules
Humans vs Zombies is a moderated game of tag.
- All players begin as humans and there are randomly chosen Originial Zombies/Alpha Zombies
- Zombies aim to tag all human players and turn them into zombies
- Humans aim to survive to evacuation
- HvZ is a semi contact sport
- Dangerous acts such as slide tackles, shoulder charges, and diving ankle taps (within reason) will not be tolerated.
- It is your responsibility to avoid putting yourself into a position where sliding or diving is the only way to slow yourself down
- All players must have submitted a signed waiver before they are allowed to participate in events.
- If you are under 18 years old your waiver must be signed by your parent/guardian
- If you do not have a signed waiver/do not wish to sign, you are not permitted to play but may spectate
- Waiver is available here: File:SvZ TC.pdf
- Don’t be a douchebag
Dress Rules
- Tactical gear such as vests and gloves are permitted
- Please use common sense in what you wear to each event
- We do not accept full BDU
- Please try to wear bright colours under your tactical gear
- Paintball masks, face masks, and head scarves are not permitted
- Please exercise common sense with what you bring to an event. Safety is the top priority for all events.
- Zombie dress is allowed, but avoid going full Romero
Humans
- Objective is to survive until the end of the event
- Able to stun zombies with specified gear to achieve objectives
- Human stunning is allowed
- Commonly known as 'Shane-ing' / to be 'Shane'd' based on the 'The Walking Dead'
- Useful for when you are about to be overrun by the zombie horde and the only way for you to get away is to leave some immobile human bait.
- Humans can stun other humans with Darts/Melee/Ball socks
- These stuns must be intentional. Unintentional friendly cross fire does not count
- Humans must go down/take a knee for 30 seconds
- They are still able to defend themselves while down
Gear Rules
- Eye protection is mandatory
- Darts
- Please use stock Nerf Streamlines/Elites/Whistlers/Suctions/Buzz Bee/Airzone/Lanard/FDL v1s/Koosh/Voberry
- No hard tipped darts (hot glue domes/stingers/FVJ)
- Any player found using dangerous darts will be removed from the event
- Blasters
- Must not fire over 60 feet flat with stock darts (Nerf Elites, Streamlines, Whistlers etc.)
- If your blasters fire 60 feet flat with SNW heavy darts they DO NOT fire 60 feet flat with stock darts
- Must not be realistic looking/or predominantly dark coloured
- Recommended blasters include any Nerf/BuzzBee that you can buy of the shelf and remains unmodified
- You can use modified blasters but must be within range restrictions. Air blasters are allowed (OPRV/Volume/Titan restrictions apply)- e.g. Shotgun loaded Big Salvo/Large absolvers
- Homemade blasters are banned
- Must not fire over 60 feet flat with stock darts (Nerf Elites, Streamlines, Whistlers etc.)
- Melee
- Limit of 1 melee weapon able to be carried at any one time
- Melee attacks must not be too aggressive, and should not target sensitive areas such as the head/neck/crotch.
- Aggressive attacks will result in a human tag to the offender.
- Melee attacks must be slashes and NOT stabs
- Hitboxes - only for melee. All hits with darts count anywhere on body.
- Hits to the arms of a zombie do not count as a stun
- Blows must hit the chest, abdomen, back, or legs to count as a stun.
- Accidental blows to head/neck/crotch are at the discretion of moderators.
- If soft hits they may count as a stun, if hard they may count as a human tag to the offender.
- Melee weapons must be made from a soft foam with no exposed plastic or hard/sharp edges.
- Cannot be thrown - even if its small
- Ball socks
- Yes, you can use these
- Clean socks must be used
- Can only be held together by tape - if a significant amount is used leading to increased firmness of the ball, it may not be permissible
- Shields/Armour
- If you wear full body armour a zombie tag will still infect you
- The shield is considered a part of your body and acts the same as full body armour - it won't save you
- Other blasters - Rockets/Foam Arrows/etc
- Tentatively usable
- Effect same as darts
- Zing Bows + RedX Arrows/Zarts not allowed (possibly growing list)
Zombies
- Objective is to tag human survivors to convert players to the zombie cause
- Aim to convert all humans to zombies before the end of the event
- Must count 3 seconds (slow count) between human tags
- Except for Alpha/Original zombie
- Can be stunned by humans
- Must go down for 30 seconds (slow count) to respawn
- Respawn from specified respawn point
Special Zombies
Special infected zombies are upgraded with additional abilities.
- These are achieved through collection of confirmed human tags
- Restricted based on total player numbers
- Alpha zombies are automatically given the ability to become a Reaper/Spitter/Charger after his/her first return to respawn.
Reaper
- Requires 3 confirmed human tags
- Equipped with pool noodle
- Longer reach
Spitter
- Requires 5 confirmed human tags
- Equipped with a Nerf pocket howler x 1
- Stuns human on hit
- Stunned human takes knee for a 30 second slow count. The human is still able to defend him/herself
- Only one use per respawn - must be regathered
- Stuns human on hit
- Cannot tag humans
Charger
- Requires 7 confirmed human tags
- Equipped with a shield
- Deflects darts/melee/ball socks
- Cannot tag
Tank*
- Requires 9 confirmed human tags
- Cannot be stunned
- Slowed - only able to walk (1 foot on ground at any one time)
Queen*
- Requires 11 confirmed human tags
- Able to respawn zombies with a 3 second slow count
- Cannot tag
*These classes are in development

On top, the Longstrike (ignore the paint job, after we’ve made our BBUMBStrike, we’ll be repainting it)
Take out everything and throw it wherever you like, just keep the trigger, the front barrel attachment (the orange piece on the far left) and the stock clips.
Before you go any further, check your tank for any problems, and if that pipe isn’t properly attached to the tank (where you can see the pink on this one) then attach it with some Tarzan grip. The pump will not be permanently attached to the tank, don’t worry about that right now, we’re going to tend to that later.
Be very careful here, the plug on the tank sticks out a small way into this pipe and you don’t want to damage it, cut the pipe a short way up to start.
When you’re done, you’ll end up with this:
Our next step is to attach a 20mm coupling to the end of the tank, this is what will hold the barrel in place, lightly sand the area around the plug, then apply Tarzan grip ONLY around the base of this section.
You don’t want any glue ending up inside the tank or on the plug.
Press the coupling on and let it dry, this is what you will end up with.
I recommend trimming up the pump a bit to make your life a little easier, be sure not to cut into it, just remove the lip that was used to hold it in the original shell so it looks like this.
There is also a small tab that sticks out on the tank itself, cut that away CAREFULLY, you don’t want to damage the tank itself, for this reason, i recommend not touching the other little ridges on the tank.
But oh noes! It doesn’t fit!
Time to make it fit, take your dremel with the small cylinder grinding tip and grind away until the conduit goes through, again, take your time, you want it to be *just* big enough for the conduit to go through, otherwise it’ll do nothing to hold everything straight. In the end, this is what you’ll have.
Now, finally time to go to town on your Longstrike shell!
As you can see, there’s a notch cut out of the side under where the jam door normally is, this is for the lip on the tank.
Grab the other half and mirror it.
Don’t forget to cut a window at the back for the pump handle, make sure its not too big, it needs to be big enough to fit the rod, but not bigger than the pump head itself.
Test that the pump is sliding properly, and you’ll realise that air is escaping somewhere, this is because the pump isn’t permanently attached to the tank in the stock BBUMB shell, but is held in by the shell itself. This works for us because it means we can twist the pump and tank around to get them in the ideal spot in the shell.
Press the pieces together in the shell to ensure they are aligned properly, then take it out and hold it until the glue starts to cure (it should only take a few minutes) this is just to stop glue dripping in your shell.
Firstly you will need to make a hole in your trigger, use the smallest drill bit that came with your dremel.
Then take a length of your braid line and attach it to the pin on the tank.
You want it to be as tight as you can get it without actually pulling the pin out. Once its connected you can close up the shell and test it out.
Now put the extension back on, and slide your 16mm conduit down into the 20mm conduit, and push it all the way back to the tank.
Next up is the aforementioned window that lets you load the darts in. The exact angle you put this at is entirely up to you, but i recommend you put the window close to the end of the base blaster so that when you pull out the barrel extension and the 16mm conduit, there is enough 20mm conduit to hold it there while you load a dart.
Then cut it out with the cutting wheel on your dremel. Be sure to test load a dart and widen the window if you need to.
Reaming out the end of the 16mm conduit will help to scoop up the darts. For this is use the pointed grinding wheel on the dremel. Apply some of the silicone spray to the outside of it to help it slide in the 20mm conduit
Now, in order to make it easier to pull out the 16mm conduit, we are going to attach it to the barrel extension. But as you can see, the 16mm conduit is much smaller than the barrel in the extension. Our way around this is to take a small section of 20mm conduit (about 2cm is plenty) and slide that over the 16mm conduit, so it sits flush with the end of the barrel extension. Once you have it in the right place, use your 2 part epoxy to make sure it doesn’t go anywhere. To make sure it goes in the right place, use your marker to draw a line at the right level, slide off the 20mm conduit, apply the epoxy just below the line, then push the 20mm conduit back down to the right place.
As you can see, its still not wide enough, so, remove the extension again and bulk out the width with some electrical tape until you can wedge it in to the extension.
Now put the extension back on one more time, then mix up some more 2 part epoxy and use it to make sure that your widened 20mm conduit isn’t going to slide back out again.
Make sure that you give the epoxy at least a day to cure, then attach the extension again and admire your work!










