Sydney vs Zombies

 

Sydney vs Zombies

Sydney vs Zombies

Sydney vs Zombies

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Introduction

Sydney vs Zombies (SvZ) is a branch off from Sydney Nerf Wars which aims to bring regular, engaging and enjoyable Humans vs Zombies (HvZ) events.

General Rules

Humans vs Zombies is a moderated game of tag.

  • All players begin as humans and there are randomly chosen Originial Zombies/Alpha Zombies
    • Zombies aim to tag all human players and turn them into zombies
    • Humans aim to survive to evacuation
  • HvZ is a semi contact sport
    • Dangerous acts such as slide tackles, shoulder charges, and diving ankle taps (within reason) will not be tolerated.
    • It is your responsibility to avoid putting yourself into a position where sliding or diving is the only way to slow yourself down
  • All players must have submitted a signed waiver before they are allowed to participate in events.
    • If you are under 18 years old your waiver must be signed by your parent/guardian
    • If you do not have a signed waiver/do not wish to sign, you are not permitted to play but may spectate
  • Don’t be a douchebag

Dress Rules

  • Tactical gear such as vests and gloves are permitted
    • Please use common sense in what you wear to each event
    • We do not accept full BDU
    • Please try to wear bright colours under your tactical gear
  • Paintball masks, face masks, and head scarves are not permitted
  • Please exercise common sense with what you bring to an event. Safety is the top priority for all events.
  • Zombie dress is allowed, but avoid going full Romero

Humans

  • Objective is to survive until the end of the event
  • Able to stun zombies with specified gear to achieve objectives
  • Human stunning is allowed
    • Commonly known as 'Shane-ing' / to be 'Shane'd' based on the 'The Walking Dead'
    • Useful for when you are about to be overrun by the zombie horde and the only way for you to get away is to leave some immobile human bait.
    • Humans can stun other humans with Darts/Melee/Ball socks
      • These stuns must be intentional. Unintentional friendly cross fire does not count
    • Humans must go down/take a knee for 30 seconds
    • They are still able to defend themselves while down

Gear Rules

  • Eye protection is mandatory
  • Darts
    • Please use stock Nerf Streamlines/Elites/Whistlers/Suctions/Buzz Bee/Airzone/Lanard/FDL v1s/Koosh/Voberry
    • No hard tipped darts (hot glue domes/stingers/FVJ)
    • Any player found using dangerous darts will be removed from the event
  • Blasters
    • Must not fire over 60 feet flat with stock darts (Nerf Elites, Streamlines, Whistlers etc.)
      • If your blasters fire 60 feet flat with SNW heavy darts they DO NOT fire 60 feet flat with stock darts
    • Must not be realistic looking/or predominantly dark coloured
    • Recommended blasters include any Nerf/BuzzBee that you can buy of the shelf and remains unmodified
    • You can use modified blasters but must be within range restrictions. Air blasters are allowed (OPRV/Volume/Titan restrictions apply)- e.g. Shotgun loaded Big Salvo/Large absolvers
    • Homemade blasters are banned
  • Melee
    • Limit of 1 melee weapon able to be carried at any one time
    • Melee attacks must not be too aggressive, and should not target sensitive areas such as the head/neck/crotch.
      • Aggressive attacks will result in a human tag to the offender.
    • Melee attacks must be slashes and NOT stabs
    • Hitboxes - only for melee. All hits with darts count anywhere on body.
      • Hits to the arms of a zombie do not count as a stun
      • Blows must hit the chest, abdomen, back, or legs to count as a stun.
      • Accidental blows to head/neck/crotch are at the discretion of moderators.
        • If soft hits they may count as a stun, if hard they may count as a human tag to the offender.
    • Melee weapons must be made from a soft foam with no exposed plastic or hard/sharp edges.
    • Cannot be thrown - even if its small
  • Ball socks
    • Yes, you can use these
    • Clean socks must be used
    • Can only be held together by tape - if a significant amount is used leading to increased firmness of the ball, it may not be permissible
  • Shields/Armour
    • If you wear full body armour a zombie tag will still infect you
    • The shield is considered a part of your body and acts the same as full body armour - it won't save you
  • Other blasters - Rockets/Foam Arrows/etc
    • Tentatively usable
    • Effect same as darts
    • Zing Bows + RedX Arrows/Zarts not allowed (possibly growing list)

Zombies

  • Objective is to tag human survivors to convert players to the zombie cause
    • Aim to convert all humans to zombies before the end of the event
  • Must count 3 seconds (slow count) between human tags
    • Except for Alpha/Original zombie
  • Can be stunned by humans
    • Must go down for 30 seconds (slow count) to respawn
    • Respawn from specified respawn point

Special Zombies

Special infected zombies are upgraded with additional abilities.

  • These are achieved through collection of confirmed human tags
  • Restricted based on total player numbers
  • Alpha zombies are automatically given the ability to become a Reaper/Spitter/Charger after his/her first return to respawn.

Reaper

  • Requires 3 confirmed human tags
  • Equipped with pool noodle
    • Longer reach

Spitter

  • Requires 5 confirmed human tags
  • Equipped with a Nerf pocket howler x 1
    • Stuns human on hit
      • Stunned human takes knee for a 30 second slow count. The human is still able to defend him/herself
    • Only one use per respawn - must be regathered
  • Cannot tag humans

Charger

  • Requires 7 confirmed human tags
  • Equipped with a shield
    • Deflects darts/melee/ball socks
  • Cannot tag

Tank*

  • Requires 9 confirmed human tags
  • Cannot be stunned
  • Slowed - only able to walk (1 foot on ground at any one time)

Queen*

  • Requires 11 confirmed human tags
  • Able to respawn zombies with a 3 second slow count
  • Cannot tag

*These classes are in development

Power Ratings 2014

This is the Official Sydney Nerf Wars Power Rating Document. Ratings will be recorded below in the following format:

Name Classes Power Rating
Amir Estaris
Mirsho
Assault 2.5 out of 5 stars (2.5 / 5)
Nerf Nerdette Demolitionist 2 out of 5 stars (2 / 5)
Beau Warren Ghost 3.5 out of 5 stars (3.5 / 5)
Brendan Ngo
Ungmon
Demolitionist 2.5 out of 5 stars (2.5 / 5)
Bryan Vo Medic 3 out of 5 stars (3 / 5)
Cameron Thistlethwaite Assault 3 out of 5 stars (3 / 5)
Daniel Cornwell
Alfonzo
Demolitionist 1.5 out of 5 stars (1.5 / 5)
Daniel Krajsic Demolitionist 1 out of 5 stars (1 / 5)
Daniel Yeo
Daye
Demolitionist 3.5 out of 5 stars (3.5 / 5)
David Shi Medic 1 out of 5 stars (1 / 5)
Dylan Merchant-Colling Ghost 3 out of 5 stars (3 / 5)
Graham Bryson Medic 2 out of 5 stars (2 / 5)
Greg Lancaster Assault 1.5 out of 5 stars (1.5 / 5)
Hong Ping Chang Medic 2.5 out of 5 stars (2.5 / 5)
James Armstead
Captain Crooks
Assault 3 out of 5 stars (3 / 5)
Joe Rubinstein Warden 1 out of 5 stars (1 / 5)
John Pham Ghost 5 out of 5 stars (5 / 5)
Jonathon Tam Assault 3.5 out of 5 stars (3.5 / 5)
Matthew Lee
Echoes
Demolitionist 3.5 out of 5 stars (3.5 / 5)
Michael Campbell
GENACON
Medic 1 out of 5 stars (1 / 5)
Michael Cole
Spydie
Commando 2 out of 5 stars (2 / 5)
Michael Giles
Psychosis
Ghost 3.5 out of 5 stars (3.5 / 5)
Michael Rule Commando 1.5 out of 5 stars (1.5 / 5)
Nick Mckenna
BFG
Warden 3.5 out of 5 stars (3.5 / 5)
Raymond Chung
Kat
Ghost 4 out of 5 stars (4 / 5)
Reece Gallagher
Synergie
Ghost 3.5 out of 5 stars (3.5 / 5)
Robert Vo Assault 2.5 out of 5 stars (2.5 / 5)
Riley Harrison Warden 1.5 out of 5 stars (1.5 / 5)
Seb McKenna Demolitionist 3 out of 5 stars (3 / 5)
Shennen Trek Medic 2 out of 5 stars (2 / 5)
Sheyon Trek Warden 2 out of 5 stars (2 / 5)
Tom Alderton Warden 1 out of 5 stars (1 / 5)
Valeriy Kuzma Medic 3 out of 5 stars (3 / 5)
Virage Bosco Assault 1 out of 5 stars (1 / 5)

Foam Fortress: Cup 2013 Results

Here are the results for the Foam Fortress: Cup for 2013.

Congratulations to team Iced VoVoYoBoTo for winning the inaugural event. Also well done to Team Extreme for being extremely competitive despite being 2 players short. They won our Play of the Day Award

Standings

1stIced VoVoYoBoTo
2ndFor Foam’s Sake
3rdTeam McNuggets
4thPhamtastic 5
5thTeam BFF
6thTeam Extreme

Play of the Day

To all participating members of Team Extreme

Pool Results

Pool A

Pool A

Round 1

Round 2

Round 3

Penalties

Phamtastic 5

Win

Win

0

Team Extreme

Loss

Loss

0

Team McNuggets

Loss

Win

0

1: Phamtastic 5 def Team McNuggets – KOTH, Phamtastic 5 @ Carpark End

2: Phamtastic 5 def Team Extreme – Flag Bearer, Phamtastic 5 @ Carpark End

3: Team McNuggets def Team Extreme – Flag Bearer, Team Extreme @ Carpark End

Pool B

Pool B

Round 1

Round 2

Round 3

Penalties

Iced VoVoYoBoTo

Win

Win

0

Team BFF

Loss

Loss

2

For Foam’s Sake

Loss

Win

1

1: Iced VoVoYoBoTo def For Foam’s Sake – CTF, For Foam’s Sake @ Carpark End

Penalty – (FFS) Graham Bryson – Affecting gameplay significantly after dart tag

2: For Foam’s Sake def Team BFF – Flag Bearer, Team BFF @ Carpark End

Penalty: (BFF) Brendan Ngo – Ressurrection while mobile

3: Iced VoVoYoBoTo def Team BFF – Flag Bearer, Team BFF @ Carpark End

Penalty: (BFF) Brendan Ngo – Illegal use of PDU away from point of tag

Semi Finals

1: For Foam’s Sake (B2) def Phamtastic 5 (A1) – Flag Bearer, Phamtastic 5 @ Carpark End

Penalty: (FFS) Michael Giles – Reusage of Rally point without resupply

Penalty: (FFS) Michael S Cole – Reusage of PDU without resupply

2: Ice VoVoYoBoTo (B1) def Team McNuggets (A2) – KOTH, Iced VoVoYoBoTo @ Carpark End

Wooden Spoon

Team BFF def Team Extreme – Flag Bearer, Team Extreme @ Carpark End

3rd Place

Team McNuggets def Phamtastic 5 – CTF, Team McNuggets @ Carpark End

Championship Rounds

1: Iced VoVoYoBoTo def For Foam’s Sake – Flag Bearer, For Foam’s Sake @ Carpark End

2: For Foam’s Sake def Iced VoVoYoBoTo – CTF, For Foam’s Sake @ Carpark End

3: Iced VoVoYoBoTo def For Foam’s Sake – CTF, For Foam’s Sake @ Carpark End

Teams

Team McNugget

Class

Rating – 12

James Armstead (c)

Assault

3

Sheyon Trek

Warden

2

Dylen Merchant-Colling

Ghost

3

Valeriy Kuzma

Medic

3

Daniel Krajsic

Demolitionist

1

Team Phamtastic Five

Class

Rating – 15.5

John Pham (c)

Ghost

5

Matthew Lee

Demolitionist

3.5

Hong Ping Chang

Medic

2.5

Jonathon Tam

Assault

3.5

Joe Rubinstein

Warden

1

Team BFF

Class

Rating – 14

Nick McKenna (c)

Warden, Demolitionist

3.5

Raymond Chung

Ghost

4

Seb McKenna

Demolitionist, Warden

3

Brendan Ngo

Assault

2.5

David Shi

Medic

1

Team Iced VoVoYoBoTo

Class

Rating – 13.5

Daniel Yeo (c)

Demolitionist

3.5

Bryan Vo

Medic

3

Robert Vo

Assault

2.5

Beau Warren

Ghost

3.5

Tom Alderton

Warden

1

Team Extreme

Class

Rating – 7

Cameron Thistlethwaite (c)

Assault

3

Amir Estaris

Medic

2.5

Daniel Cornwell

Demolitionist

1.5

Michale Rule

DNA

1.5

Reece Gallagher

DNA

3.5

Team For Foam’s Sake

Class

Rating – 11

Graham Bryson (c)

Medic

2

Nerf Nerdette

Demolitionist

2

Riley Harrison

Warden

1.5

Michael Psychois Giles

Ghost

3.5

Michael S Cole

Assault

2

The Foam Fortress Cup Pt. 2

The intention of this post is to elaborate on the finer details of the FF Cup that we may have skimmed over in our introductory post. It’s long and all that, but it’s very important that you know exactly how things will be working. This post should answer 99% of your questions (but you guys are smart alec’s so I’m assuming we’ll see more). We’re also releasing a tentative draw in this post, so look out for that.

Serious Competitive Event

All participants in the Foam Fortress Cup must be aware that this particular event is to be treated as a serious competitive event. To maintain the integrity of such a competitive event, participants are required to be familiar with both the Foam Fortress: Sydney rule set and the rules of the competition, and to conduct themselves appropriately at all times. No concessions will be made for those who arrive late to the event, nor those who need to leave early – your team will play on without you (or with a substitute if one can be organised).

Tournament Rules – Expanded

All games will be played under Tournament rules in addition to the regular rules that FF:S is played under. Tournament rules include:

  • Highlander: Only one of each class per team.

  • Players can only compete for the team they have registered with.

  • Each players’ class must be confirmed prior to each match and cannot be changed mid game.

  • Rule Breaking and questioning rules mid-game will be penalised.

  • Major instances of rule breaking will be treated on a case by case basis.

  • Time limits on games will be enforced (10 minutes).

  • Games will start regardless of whether all scheduled participants are present.

  • Players can’t enter the match after the round has started, even if their team is missing one or more players.

  • Players can only use gear that they start the game with (whether it is carried on their person or left at Base). All gear that a player takes into the game with them must be legal for their load out.

  • During games, Players cannot trade non-consumable gear such as blasters, large melee weapons, or shields. They can however, trade consumable items, such as small melee weapons, darts or grenades (Rockets can’t actually be traded because only one class can use legally carry them).

  • Players are required to wear proper gear. This includes, but is not limited to, Assaults wearing their PDUs and Ghosts carrying their Rally Points. If the proper gear is not present, the ability (or other element of the game) cannot be used.

  • When tagged, players are required to go to a knee immediately. After they go down, they may decide on their next course of action: wait for Resurrection, use their PDU, move to the Rally Point, or return to Base. Note that this rule is still valid for Grenades, Rockets and Mega Howlers even though there is only one course of action available after being hit by them.

  • Spectators can cheer and enjoy the play, but they must not give away player positions, and must not yell instructions. They may incur penalties for his/her team.

  • Players who have been eliminated by Titan Rockets or Mega Howlers must wait at his/her team’s main Base until the game is over.

  • The results of all disputes are at the discretion of the Referees.

Pools

Teams for the tournament will be divided into two pools based on aggregated power ratings. Each pool will compete in a round robin to determine who will progress to the final series.

Three matches will be played in each pool. Points will determine rankings and progression onto the finals. 3 points will be awarded to winners of each match, 1 point to the loser and 2 points to each team for a draw.

If there is a tie at the end of the round robin for pool rankings, the teams will be differentiated by penalties.

Below is a drafted image of the draw for the FFCup.

FFCup draw Draft1

Marshalling

It is the responsibility of the team captain to have their team ready in time for their next match. To assist with this, there will be a number of marshals operating on the spectators hill. Players must recognise that it is not the marshall’s job to have their team ready, but rather to remind them of the schedule that they must follow.

If there is a sweep prior to a match that involves your team, it is not required to participate in the sweep. Ensure that all your gear and equipment and loaded clips are ready before the start of your match.

Matches

Each match will be played between two teams in one of the three Foam Fortress: Sydney game types. The game type played will be determined by a toss of a coin prior to the start of each match with the winner able to choose which game type played or side of field to start from.

There will be a 10 minute time limit on each match. 3 points will be awarded to the winning team and 1 point to the loser. 2 points will be awarded for a draw – draws will only be awarded in the event of a timeout, or in the event of two teams completing the objective at the same time (this is, however, only possible in Flagbearer).

Refereeing

Matches will be refereed by more than one administrator/senior SNW member who will call hits, keep and announce KotH time, and keep match time. They will also alert players of destroyed Bases as the information becomes available.

However, they will not notify players of eliminated enemy team members or destroyed Rally Points (until a player tries to respawn off it, thus drawing a Penalty). We feel that the removal of destroyed Rally Points is the responsibility of the Ghost or that Ghost’s teammates. It comes down to communication – which is a vital element to every team.

All referee decisions are final and objections may incur penalties.

Penalties

The Foam Fortress: Cup will be played with strict adherence to the Foam Fortress: Sydney rules set. Due to the nature of the tournament there will be penalties for rule breaking.

Penalties for rule breaking/gamesmanship will be decided during play. These will range in severity from a warning to team forfeiture.

During the day we will be running a tight schedule. This will require teams to be prepared to start on time. Failure of teams to comply may inflict penalties.

Penalties may have a significant impact on the progression of a team by determining tie situations.

Finals

The two top teams from each pool will play in a preliminary final to determine which teams progress to the championship rounds. The top team from Pool A will play the second ranked team from Pool B and vice versa.

The Championship rounds will be a best of three match series.

Prizes

The Awards ceremony will take place at the end of the day, after the final dart sweep. The prizes, including the $450 prize pool and a picture with the Foam Fortress cup (as well as a few other goodies) will be awarded then.

Foam Fortress Cup

The Foam Fortress Cup is waiting…

Link to the original FFCup Post

Dart Hire – The Fourth Generation

Overview

So we’ve come to that time again, guys, where SNW’s dart supplies have started to run low (or in this case, were not ideal to begin with) and enough capital has been raised for our darts to be replenished. This post will outline SNW’s Fourth Generation of Dart Hire, featuring thicker foam that GLOWS IN THE DARK. But first, a copied and pasted explanation of what Dart hire is.

Dart Hire, for those who are unaware, is a system where a large quantity of darts is purchased and owned by one (or more if they so choose) individual(s), which is then rented out to the community for a set rental fee at each war. It functions as a convenient way for community members to have enough ammunition for wars at all times without constantly having to replace their own darts that are spoilt or lost at events. It acts to bridge the gap between the newb and the veteran, allowing for all participants to compete respectably. For Sydney’s community, the Dart Hire system acted as an impetus for its growth into what we see today.

The Fourth Generation of Dart Hire is to come into effect at the next war – i.e. the 26th of October’s FF:S Training Day!

The Darts themselves

The biggest change in the Fourth Generation of Dart Hire are the darts themselves. The darts are much heavier on average. The 4th Gen Red tips weigh in at 1.15g, compared to the approximate 1g of the 3rd Gen Red tips. The 4th Gen Blue tips weigh 1.3g, while the 3rd Gen Blue tips weighed about 1.16g. This means you’ll theoretically get a big boost in straight line accuracy for your blasters, but suffer lower ranges than that you’re used to. So you’ll be wanting to mod your blasters for that little bit of extra kick.

The foam used is much fatter than last time – a much more ideal fit in stock breeches. Comparatively, the darts are now just slightly thicker than Nerf Elite darts.

As you can see, there is a reasonable difference between the Third Generation darts and the Fourth Generation darts.

One of the most frequently asked questions has been whether they fit into 16mm conduit. In short, they do… sort of. They’ll definitely work in RSCB’s, and with a little bit of negotiation you can hand feed them into barrels. But some types of breeches will struggle. Below are some comparison pictures of how 3rd Gens, Elites, and 4th Gens fit into Conduit. The test was pretty much when “twisting or extra pushing force was necessary to push the dart further into the slightly reamed conduit barrel”.

The 3rd Gen darts fit nicely into conduit. However they didn’t work in stock breeches too well.

Elite Darts almost fit completely into the barrel. It’s a shame they’re too light.

About 40% of the 4th Gen dart fit in without twisting or extra force.

The darts do fit very well into PETG though. I’ve got some videos to demonstrate this.

3rd Gen dart’s behaviour in PETG: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CaVBfZxpe9Q

Elite dart’s behaviour in PETG: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SENcWa32iF0

4th Gen dart’s behaviour in PETG: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7np0Wgskn0

These darts definitely work in flywheels and stock breeches, so if you’re using those you’ll be fine. But my advice to those who are using conduit set ups is to change your barrels to something like 9/16″ Brass or get some PETG (I have some of that stuff stored away, so you might want to talk to me). All this might be an excuse to do a little modding over the next couple of weeks.

Dart Hire Rules and Conditions

The rules and conditions of Dart Hire are to remain mostly identical to those outlined in this post. However, there have been some minor changes to the rewards for sweeping.

Dart Hire Coupons

In recent times, the Admin team has slacked off with awarding Dart Hire Coupons for good performances during dart sweeping. We’re going to get back onto the horse and start handing out at least THREE of these coupons away each war where the Dart Hire system is used.

However, to qualify for coupons, you are now required to bring your own bucket or other container for dart sweeping. A dump pouch or other piece of tactical gear does not qualify as a container. The idea is to not have you just loading up your pouches but instead dropping the darts off for others to load up with.

If you’re upset with having to buy a bucket or something, keep in mind that you’ll be investing a small amount for a chance to win many $5 Dart Hire coupons over time.

That’ll be all from me for now. I hope you all enjoy these new darts that won’t pop out of clips and fall out of stock barrels (I hated that so much). If you have any questions, contact me on FB or drop an email to sydneynerfwars@gmail.com

– Echoes, the guy who writes way too many words for these things.

How To: Demolitionist

Demolitionist Emblem

Dem – o – li – tion

[DAMN-oh-li-shun]

noun

1. The act or process of wrecking or destroying, especially destruction by explosives.

Overview

The role of the demolitionist is just as its name suggests, that is, to wreck of destroy the opposition. Armed with the largest ammunition [the Mega Missile (Titan Rocket)/Mega Howler/Homemade Foam Rockets], demolitionists are designed to WIN games, disrupt team formations and threaten position.

There is no other class in Foam Fortress: Sydney that has its own specific win conditions.

Win Conditions

  • The team that completes the objective first wins
  • A Demolitionist’s Rocket is able to destroy a Base and force a rout situation on the team with no Base. A team can win by routing the enemy team.
  • A Demolitionist’s Rocket is able to eliminate players who are hit by it. It is possible to win by eliminating the entire team.

So if you want to be a one man wrecking machine, this is the class for you.

Loadout Analysis

Continue reading “How To: Demolitionist”

How to: Medic

Med·ic

[med-ik] 

noun

1. a member of a military medical corps; corpsman.
2. a doctor or intern.

Overview

One of the most common things you’ll hear at every Foam Fortress event is someone (or even everyone) hollering for a “MEDIC!!!!”. The Medic is Foam Fortress: Sydney’s main support class. While they might have slightly less firepower than the Assault, their Ability to constantly keep their teammates in the game is vital for victory. The Medic’s load out was designed with a passive playstyle in mind, as well as lighter kit so that they can dash across the battlefield to their downed comrades. Their load out appears as follows:

Medic

PrimaryCombat RiflesFully AutomaticsSemi-Automatics, or Pistols

Secondary: ONE Small Melee Weapon

Equipment: None

Ability: Resurrect – Can bring a fallen teammate back to life on the spot which they were tagged. Resurrection is activated by putting a hand on the fallen team mate’s shoulder and counting to three slowly.

Loadout Analysis

The Medic wasn’t designed to be in the thick of the battle – and their load out clearly demonstrates that. They only have one blaster available to them, and no sidearms to turn to when their primary blaster needs reloading. The Medic was built to engage enemies from afar, using Combat Rifles to get that 80ft range that would keep them safe from Titan Rockets, Fully Automatics, and Shotguns. The lack of excess gear allows them the mobility and agility to swoop in for a quick and effective Resurrect when need be.  However, the majority of Medics in the current “metagame” choose to use Semi Automatics for a mix of range and fire rate.

The Good Bits

There are a few different ways to play Medic. You can take the safe route, the one the Medic was built for, and use a Combat Rifle for 80ft range engagement, such as a Longshot or a Tripleshot. This build lets you engage from afar with a respectable fire rate – enough for some decent suppressive fire. Or you can play what’s in the current metagame by taking a Semi Auto Primary like the Stryfe and supporting your team from a little closer to the action. This way, you’ll always be closer to your teammates if they’ve been tagged for faster Resurrections. Both are effective ways of playing the Medic – the choice is yours.

Longshot Combat Rifle

Below is a list of things to keep in mind when you’re the team’s Medic. May they teach you how to be the best Medic ever!

  • Never forget that, first and foremost, your role is to support your team mates. Sometimes giving up a great shot in favour of Resurrecting your Warden or Assault can be the best decision that you’ll make all game.
  • Only move in closer to a skirmish when your Assault and/or Warden have drawn the enemy attention. If you move forward too early, an organised opposition will target you instantly.
  • Pay attention at all times. Your team needs you. And the enemy team wants you tagged!
  • If it’s too dangerous to go in, then don’t. Your teammate can always respawn or use the Ghost’s Rally Point. More often than not, a downed ally in a dangerous position spells a Titan Rocket with your name on it (Trust me. This is coming from someone who plays plenty of Demolitionist).
  • Don’t Resurrect an Assault unless they call for it. They’re probably planning something devious with their PDU.

My experience with Medic is a little… superficial. I’ve played the class maybe a handful of times at best, so my advice only holds so much water. To make up for this, I’ve gotten the some help from Valeriy Kuzma, arguably SNW’s top Medic. He was pretty happy to answer some questions about How to: Medic. I have paraphrased some of the things he’s said, but the main idea is still maintained. I’m honestly quite surprised he didn’t mention how quick he is. Generally that’d be a huge advantage to have for a class like the Medic.

Expert Opinion

Echoes: What do you think is the most important trait to being a good Medic?Valeriy Medic

VK: I think attentiveness is the key. You need to keep tabs on all of your team mates so that you can quickly react to when they’re tagged.

Echoes: The Medic has very limited options open to it when selecting gear for your load out. How do you get around this?

VK: I focus more on being supportive. My blaster is mainly used to hold off any flankers rather than going for tags. I rely on my other team mates to deal with them.

Echoes: How do you know when to rush in and resurrect someone? And how do you know when not to?

VK: Being attentive comes into play here as well. You have to sum up the situation. Are your other team mates in a good position to cover you? Or is the downed team mate in a good strategic position? I weigh these things up before I decide to rush in.

Final Thoughts

Another article, another guideline on how to play a class. Thanks to Valeriy Kuzma for his assistance in helping me understand the class a little better. The Medic is an integral part of any team – they’re the most consistent source of mobile respawns in Foam Fortress. Your job is essentially to stay out of trouble and keep your teammates out of trouble. As long as you do that, you’re doing it right.

How To: Assault

As·sault

[uh-sawlt]

noun

1. A sudden, violent attack; onslaught.

Overview

Just as the name of the class indicates, the Assault is Foam Fortress: Sydney’s primary attacking class. Armed with a mix of fire rate, capacity and a wide range of tools to get the job done with, the Assault is the most formidable force in head on combat. Their Load out is designed for longevity in the field, with little bit of flexibility to help the Demolitionist break down Warden defences if necessary. Let’s have a quick look at the Assault’s Load Out:

Assault

SecondaryCombat Rifles or Pistols and ONE Small Melee Weapon

Equipment: ONE Grenade

Ability: Personal Defibrillator Unit (PDU) – Has a one time use Personal Defibrillator unit that can be used once the Assault has been tagged by darts or melee. Once used, the Assault is revived and able to return to the battle. The PDU is restored by returning to Base.

Foam Fortress How To:

How To: is a new set of articles aimed at helping the average Sydney Nerfer understand and improve their play in Foam Fortress: Sydney.

We’ve noticed that a few of our members have been having some difficulties adjusting to the slightly more intricate rules that are Foam Fortress – and don’t worry, we fully appreciate why. As you probably know, there is a METRIC CRAP TON of rules (written by yours truly) which can be a lot to take in. There’s stuff about classes, Abilities, different blaster categories, and a whole lot of other stuff that you probably can’t remember. All that can be pretty dang confusing, even after you’ve put it into practice.

Nerdette

So what we thought we’d do is write a bunch of articles that’ll help Foam Fortress become a little less overwhelming so that you can be the best Foam Fortress player that you can be. Keep in mind though, not all of these How To: guides are the be all and end all of the ways you can play the game; they’re merely a starting point.

I hope you all decide to give them a read, and even offer some constructive criticism. Like I said, these guides won’t always be the best way to play the class or use the piece of gear. Seeing as I, myself, really only play Demolitionist and Commando, there are probably a whole lot of things about the other classes that I can’t quite explain as well as others. I might learn a thing or two from these as well.

We do have a few things planned the for the future of Foam Fortress: Sydney. We aim to simplify the game a little bit, and these How To:’s will help us do that. So make like Nerdette, over there, and be happy about it!

Beau’s BBUMBStrike Write Up

My first major nerf mod was a BBUMB + Longstrike integration, and its still a very popular choice for people getting started with modding, and with good reason, the end result is quite the useful blaster, and the skills you will learn in constructing it are invaluable. However, there does seem to be a definite lack of guides on making them, enter, my BBUMBStrike writeup!

Firstly, I do not claim that any of this is my original work, BBUMBStrikes have been around for a while now, all ive done is go through the method i use to give people a good starting point.

The blaster I’ll be making here is a replica of my first BBUMBStrike, which was constructed with the help and guidance of the SNW community, specific thanks go to Ryan Giles (for guidance on the internal layout), and  John Pham (for the breech).

So, lets begin

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

PARTS

1x Buzz Bee Ultimate Missile Blaster (or whatever tank you choose)
1x Nerf Longstrike
1m 16mm conduit (See notes on conduit)
1m 20mm conduit
1x 20mm conduit coupling
fishing line (i use sport fisher 0.35mm braid line from kmart, but anything similar that is hard to snap will work)
lots of patience

NOTES ON CONDUIT

The brand of conduit can make or break your blaster, different brands can have vastly different quality.
For Nerf purposes I (and most experienced SNW modders) recommend either Keyplas (My personal favourite) or Vindex, both of these can be found at different electrical wholesalers, and i recommend you call around and ask exactly what brands a particular shop has.
The only brand that Bunnings stocks is Aussieduct, and quite honestly it causes more problems than its worth. Some people have gotten lucky, and had no problems with particular lengths, but I’ve found it to be incredibly unreliable. I definitely recommend that you avoid it like the plague.

TOOLS/SUPPLIES…. Cam this is the bit you need

Dremel (I use the Ozito rotary tool from Bunnings)
Dremel attachments: cutting disks, grinding disks, pointed grinding wheel, small drill bit
Pipe cutter
Safety glasses
Tarzan grip
2 part epoxy (i use Sellys)
Electrical Tape
H4000 silicone spray
Permanent marker

OK, got everything? Good, let’s get started!

STEP 1: DISASSEMBLE BLASTERS

 Presenting, our two blasters.

On top, the Longstrike (ignore the paint job, after we’ve made our BBUMBStrike, we’ll be repainting it)
And below, the Buzz Bee Ultimate Missile Blaster.

Now, raise them both to your altar and sacrifice them to foamdar.

Upon opening the Longstrike, this is what you will find.

Take out everything and throw it wherever you like, just keep the trigger, the front barrel attachment (the orange piece on the far left) and the stock clips.

Next open up the BBUMB, the tank and pump (pictured below) will just lift straight out.

Before you go any further, check your tank for any problems, and if that pipe isn’t properly attached to the tank (where you can see the pink on this one) then attach it with some Tarzan grip. The pump will not be permanently attached to the tank, don’t worry about that right now, we’re going to tend to that later.


STEP 2: GETTING THE INTERN
ALS READY

First things first, SAFETY GLASSES, trust me, getting plastic shavings in your eyes isn’t fun, and there’s going to be lots of plastic flying around from here on out.

Now to get the tank fixed up, the first thing we need to do is get rid of that black tubing, time to whip out your dremel with a cutting wheel on it.

Be very careful here, the plug on the tank sticks out a small way into this pipe and you don’t want to damage it, cut the pipe a short way up to start.
Next grab a hold of the pin on the back, and pull the plug back, this way you can cut the rest of the black tube without damaging the plug.

When you’re done, you’ll end up with this:

Our next step is to attach a 20mm coupling to the end of the tank, this is what will hold the barrel in place, lightly sand the area around the plug, then apply Tarzan grip ONLY around the base of this section.

You don’t want any glue ending up inside the tank or on the plug.

Press the coupling on and let it dry, this is what you will end up with.


STEP 3: MAKE IT FIT

This next step is the part where you really need to take your time, if you dremel carefully enough, the tank and pump will sit inside the shell without having to be glued to anything. I find the best way with any integration is to visualise how the tank will fit in then slowly grind away until it does, so, take your tank and lay it out how it will fit inside.

I recommend trimming up the pump a bit to make your life a little easier, be sure not to cut into it, just remove the lip that was used to hold it in the original shell so it looks like this.

There is also a small tab that sticks out on the tank itself, cut that away CAREFULLY, you don’t want to damage the tank itself, for this reason, i recommend not touching the other little ridges on the tank.

Next, you want to make sure that your tank is straight with the front of the blaster, the easiest way to do this it to use the barrel attachment we kept before. So take your 20mm conduit, feed it though this, then push the end into the conduit coupling on your tank.

But oh noes! It doesn’t fit!

Time to make it fit, take your dremel with the small cylinder grinding tip and grind away until the conduit goes through, again, take your time, you want it to be *just* big enough for the conduit to go through, otherwise it’ll do nothing to hold everything straight. In the end, this is what you’ll have.

Now, finally time to go to town on your Longstrike shell!
So get in there and cut and grind away until the tank and pump sit in flat, remember, take it slow, you don’t need to grind away absolutely everything. By the time you’re done you’ll have something like this.

As you can see, there’s a notch cut out of the side under where the jam door normally is, this is for the lip on the tank.

Once you have everything fitting in this side…

Grab the other half and mirror it.

Don’t forget to cut a window at the back for the pump handle, make sure its not too big, it needs to be big enough to fit the rod, but not bigger than the pump head itself.

Test that the pump is sliding properly, and you’ll realise that air is escaping somewhere, this is because the pump isn’t permanently attached to the tank in the stock BBUMB shell, but is held in by the shell itself. This works for us because it means we can twist the pump and tank around to get them in the ideal spot in the shell.

Since we now have our layout sorted, its time to take some Tarzan grip and attach the pump properly, ensure that you only put the glue around the base of this section of the pump.

Press the pieces together in the shell to ensure they are aligned properly, then take it out and hold it until the glue starts to cure (it should only take a few minutes) this is just to stop glue dripping in your shell.

STEP 4: LINK IT UP

Now we need to get a trigger working
To do this we’re going to attach the Longstrike trigger to the pin on the back of the tank using fishing line.
My personal preference is this braid line (you can get it at Kmart for about $10)

Firstly you will need to make a hole in your trigger, use the smallest drill bit that came with your dremel.

Then take a length of your braid line and attach it to the pin on the tank.

You want it to be as tight as you can get it without actually pulling the pin out. Once its connected you can close up the shell and test it out.


STEP 5: ASSEMBLE THE BREECH

Home stretch now!
After checking that your pump and trigger are working there’s just one more thing to do before we can start firing darts! And that is to build the breech. Credit to John Pham for showing me this breech design.

Basically the way it works is that the 20mm conduit is permanently attached to the coupling on the tank, a window for the darts is then cut in to the 20mm conduit, so to reload you will pull the 16mm conduit up past the window, put in a dart, then push the 16mm conduit back down, which will scoop up the dart and push it all the way back to the tank.

Firstly you should already have the 20mm conduit attached right in the the coupling on the tank, if you didn’t already, make sure its pushed in as far as it can go. Then slide the barrel extension over it, and mark how high up it comes, then remove the extension and use your pipe cutter to cut the 20mm conduit about 5-10cm away from the end of the extension. It will end up about this long.

Now put the extension back on, and slide your 16mm conduit down into the 20mm conduit, and push it all the way back to the tank.

It’s not terribly scientific but the general consensus is that if your 16mm conduit goes a few cm past the end of the barrel extension, then its right on the perfect length for a BBUMB.

You should end up with something like this.

Next up is the aforementioned window that lets you load the darts in. The exact angle you put this at is entirely up to you, but i recommend you put the window close to the end of the base blaster so that when you pull out the barrel extension and the 16mm conduit, there is enough 20mm conduit to hold it there while you load a dart.

Once you have decided exactly where its going, mark out a rectangle.

Then cut it out with the cutting wheel on your dremel. Be sure to test load a dart and widen the window if you need to.

Reaming out the end of the 16mm conduit will help to scoop up the darts. For this is use the pointed grinding wheel on the dremel. Apply some of the silicone spray to the outside of it to help it slide in the 20mm conduit

Now, in order to make it easier to pull out the 16mm conduit, we are going to attach it to the barrel extension. But as you can see, the 16mm conduit is much smaller than the barrel in the extension. Our way around this is to take a small section of 20mm conduit (about 2cm is plenty) and slide that over the 16mm conduit, so it sits flush with the end of the barrel extension. Once you have it in the right place, use your 2 part epoxy to make sure it doesn’t go anywhere. To make sure it goes in the right place, use your marker to draw a line at the right level, slide off the 20mm conduit, apply the epoxy just below the line, then push the 20mm conduit back down to the right place.

As you can see, its still not wide enough, so, remove the extension again and bulk out the width with some electrical tape until you can wedge it in to the extension.

Now put the extension back on one more time, then mix up some more 2 part epoxy and use it to make sure that your widened 20mm conduit isn’t going to slide back out again.

Make sure that you give the epoxy at least a day to cure, then attach the extension again and admire your work!


STEP 6: TESTING

Now comes the time to measure the quality of your work, so pump it up, then put your finger over the end of the 16mm barrel and pull the trigger, listen carefully and make sure you cant hear any air escaping, if you do, open it back up and find the leak, if not, you’re all set for pew!

Go blast some foam!